Make Ice Cream a Fixture at Thanksgiving

Lille Allen/Eater Scoops of butter pecan, salty caramel, and vanilla can take pie to the next level but are also great on their own Last Thanksgiving, my mother-in-law, who valiantly takes it upon herself to cook every part of the meal, set out her usual spread. There was turkey, souffle-like mashed potatoes, buttery pull-apart rolls, and the best part: multiple pies. But unlike in years past, there was a welcome new addition to the dessert table: a maple pecan ice cream. In the years since she had last hosted, she had gotten into making ice cream. Corn ice cream in the summer, a malted vanilla year round, and for Thanksgiving, the autumnal flavor that fit right in alongside apple, squash, and pecan pies. Its presence made me realize that ice cream should always be a part of the Thanksgiving table. And more than that — it should be chosen with the same consideration given to the rest of the dessert. As good as pie is, it’s better with ice cream. After all, “à la mode” means “in style.” Thanksgiving is as apt an occasion as any to add a little style to your dessert plate. Typically, vanilla is thought to be the best pairing for pie, but I’d argue that on a special occasion it should be one of several options for pie and ice cream pairings. Butter pecan could take a slice of pecan pie over the top; salty caramel ice cream is the ideal complement to apple pie; while pumpkin pie might be made more special with the addition of a spicy cinnamon flavor or perhaps something unexpected, like Noona’s toasted rice. The right kind of ice cream can also be dessert enough on its own at Thanksgiving. It’s perhaps even a nice way to accommodate those strange souls who don’t care for pie. A number of ice cream brands agree, of course, and have released flavors that riff on the traditions of holiday. Salt & Straw has Parker House rolls with salted buttercream and sweet potato casserole ice creams (though I will stop short of endorsing its turkey stuffing and cranberry sauce). Van Leeuwen makes a pumpkin cheesecake ice cream. And my mother in law’s maple pecan certainly warrants a scoop sans pie. If you, too, are a Thanksgiving host with an ice cream making habit, the sky’s really the limit when it comes to Thanksgiving ice cream. But if you’re not, at the very least, do remember to pick up a quart of vanilla before the guests arrive.